A bus ride back: where the west clashes with the east

To go to Sapa to Lo Cai you will have to take a private car, your own motorbike (so jealous of the group of guys we saw on a motorbike trip across the north), or take a local van.

On our van ride our driver decided that he would pack about 15 people into a van that was made to seat 8.  Just when you thought we were going we would pick up another, then another, then another. It seemed like it was never going to end! He kept saying that each row could fit 5 Vietnamese even though they clearly were made for 3. What he had failed to realize was that he was carting a bunch of westerners who tend to be just a bit bigger than your average Vietnamese.  Five of us don’t really fit on a seat made for 3.

At one point I was sure there was going to be a throw down. My favorite was the women who kept yelling, “I am going to call Hanoi and you’re going to lose your job”, lets think about this....Really? I am don't think she realized where she was.

Trekking through North Vietnam

We opted to do the 6 hour village hike through the Sapa Mountains although I would highly recommend  the homestay if you have the time.  One thing to note about Sapa and the village trecks is that all guests must be with a guide. And after wondering through the tiny mountain trails, I see why. One wouldn't want to get lost or end up like the two people who fell off the mountain.

Our guide Pam was a young Flower Hmong, we were so grateful she was there to lead us and to teach us about her culture.  As you hike through the mountains you will be accompanied by a few other Black Hmong ladies.  If it is raining these women will be your saving grace.  The trail gets slippery and can be super steep so I am sure you won't mind having a few other helping hands.  They will only ask that you buy a small product at the end for $1 on up.

We were a bit disappointed learn about a few things:

-  Some tourist get a bit aggressive towards these women yelling at them not to follow them and sometimes physically pushing them out of the way. Ironically, these same people when it rains realize they need their help to get through some of the trail.

-  In Vietnam the Hmong people and other ethnic groups are referred to as “little cat”. They are looked upon as uncivilized. 

Vietnam: Sapa Town & Ba Ha Market

I didn’t know what to expect about Sapa but I was pleasantly surprised upon arrival.

Getting to Sapa is easy: 1 overnight train to Lo Cai and an hour and a half trip up the winding mountain.  The trip up the mountain is gorgeous and perfectly picturesque - lush mountains are covered in bright green rice terraces.

CREEP ALERT:  1st overnight train: I swore they were trying to make a popsicle out of me and an old Chinese women kept staring at me from across the other bunk in the dark.  How do I know? I did the pretend one eye sleep bit.  I was a little too creeped out to relax all the way.

2nd overnight train: we met two brothers traveling together through Vietnam. Homeboy go comfy and stripped down to his boxers, I was just happy he covered up despite how hot it was.

We were lucky enough to arrive on Sunday, the only day that the Ba Ha market is open. This is a festive occasion where a number of communities come together, some people traveling for over 4 days to get to the market: Flower H’mong, Black H’mong, Zai, & Red H’mong.  All day long the market is packed – starting at 5 am until 4 pm.

What can you buy at the market: anything from standard items like clothes, food, and houseware items to water buffalo, puppies, chickens, pigs, birds, snakes – you name it, they have it.

Oh to be a Hmong man...

Apparently the Hmong men gather and drink and drink until they pass out. If a man doesn’t drink it means he isn’t a good man because he has no friends. Once drunk and passed out the women will sometimes hold an umbrella over him until he wakes up and is ready to leave.

Although it was 9 am in the morning we were invited twice to partake in the festivities and drink up.  If you thought whiskey was strong think again – their corn alcohol is called the the dragon that breathes fire into your throat.  Ouch!

Our first taste of the corn based alcohol was with an elderly Flower Hmong who giggled as she held up the bottle cap for us to taste.  Our faces must have said everything because she & her cronies laughed hysterically at our reaction.

On our second tasting, we were invited into the tailor shop owned by a friend of our guide.   First she offered us tea.  After the first cup she brought out a bottle of mooshine that she  had aged for over two years! 1 shot, 2 shots later and then another with her husband had us a bit tipsy!

Vietnam: Halong Bay

Travel tip:  don't always believe the reviews you read. 

Initially we were hesitant to visit Halong bay after reading a number of reviews that said it was overrated and overrun by tourist.  SO GLAD WE DIDN’T LISTEN.  I think key may be to visit the bay during low season, late May/June so that you can really enjoy it and avoid the big crowds.

Halong Bay offers a variety of options from 1 day tours to 1 week.  I would opt for the longer ones if you have time. I repeatedly said that if I didn’t have to see anything else in Vietnam, I would have stayed a week.

Whatever you do, you pay for what you get so you many want to spend a little more to get a better quality boat. We loved our boat, the food was fab & it was chill with only 10 cabins.  If aren't looking to relax or be romantic then you might as well go for a party boat.  One was anchored across from us & the entire group continued to jump fro the sun deck for hours!

The trip is so relaxing and the views are stunning. There is as much activity as you want. We kayaked, hiked, swam, explored caves, relaxed on the sun deck, and learned how to make spring rolls.

We were also lucky enough to share a few meals with some great people: an older couple from Holland traveling through Vietnam for 3 weeks, an Australian man who was visiting his brother in Thailand and was planning to rent a motorbike to ride through the north of Nam, and another couple from Holland who were on a 6 month adventure – they had taken a motor home through Australian and New Zealand and were traveling Vietnam for 1 month before returning home. (I hope to be them in my 50's!)

Vietnam: Hanoi Highlights

Hanoi is a totally different vibe from “the Ho Chi”.  It tends to be a bit slower than HCMC & a little more chill but it still has enough going on. 

The Old Quarter is where most people opt to stay and so did we . It is totally walkable and is packed with all different areas from the textile area, to the toy street, to the spice market, to the tubberware section (random).  It’s a blend of Vietnamese architecture and French colonial buildings.

TRAVEL TIP: It’s an excellent place to get clothes made.  If you do opt to do it, go on your first day and get it out the way.  You will need to allow for a day or three before your creation is complete.

Highlights:

-  Walking around the lake early in the morning or late afternoon with the locals as they get their daily exercise.  If you’re feeling up to it, opt to join the old ladies in the aerobics class.

-  Cu Chi Tunnels: discovering how the Viet Cong lived.  For 30 years, since the beginning of the fight with the French for independence into the Vietnam War with America the Viet Cong learned to survive underground.  It is worth the visit but be prepared for over the top propaganda. 

A few things we found disturbing:

-  A gun range where you can opt to shoot anything from an AK 47 to a machine gun. 

- Encouraging guest to climb up a blown up tank to take pictures.  (C'mon people show a little respect).

Vietnam, round 2: Hanoi, Halong Bay & Sapa

We got suckered into doing the local tourist route and I am glad we did.  On our tour around North Vietnam we got to check out Hanoi, Halong Bay and Sapa.

After being in the south, it was hard not to start to compare some of the differences:
- The geography north of Hanoi is mountainous, lush, and green
- We had been told that by locals that people in the north tend to be a bit more aggressive, visit and you decide for yourself.

TRAVEL TIP: A few words of advice that we received and I thought I would pass along:

- Taxi’s in Hanoi: get in the airport taxi’s ONLY.  Often taxis will take you to a hotel of their choice, despite your protest. They will want you to stay at the hotel and if you refuse will sometimes get physical. Never happened to us but supposedly it does.

Random fact (as told by one local north vietnamese): According to our guide the southern ladies want northern men because they are strong and manly and northern women like southern men because they are romantic and sweet. Not sure if this is true but thought I would share.

Things that make you go hmmm - resort rules on Phu Quoc

Upon arrival at our resort I thought I would take a look at the hotel info. I stumbled upon the "resort regulations", and some of them are pretty interesting.  For your reading pleasure:

"Don't bring weapon, in flammable or explosive substances, or narcotic into the room. Pets or food are not welcome in the resort and also in room" (the fact that there is a rule about taking explosives into your room gave me pause while I sat wondering who may be in the room next to me)

"Taking street-walkers to the room, having gamble and using narcotic are prohibited in the Resort" (although during our stay we didn't see any encounter that looked like a John picking up a street walker it is a major problem all over Vietnam.  Just one walk through the backpacker district in Ho Chi Minh will show you that.  After a while you start to see some very suspect characters eyeing everything that crosses their path)

"You cannot change room by yourself. Any changes of rooms must be agreed by the receptionist". (I found this particularly interesting as I was wondering to what extent people are "changing" the rooms. Not to mention some of the furniture is bolted to the floor.)

"Please receive your visitors at the lounge. In case of meeting the guest in your own room, you must be agreed by receptionist and it must be ended before 10:00 PM" (When I read this rule I couldn't help but wonder what the conversation would be like especially for a non Vietnamese speaking person and a receptionist that doesn’t speak anything but their native language.  I would love to see the hand gesture conversation for this)

Another noteworthy rule that you will find throughout Vietnam, you are not allowed stay with a Vietnamese person if you are a foreigner unless you are married.

I think that all hotels should consider adding this rule, "no hotel construction work or repairs should begin before 8 am". Apparently, things get started super early in Vietnam.  Twice we have heard hotel work being done as early as 6 am. Waking up to loud banging sounds isn't exactly pleasant.  I guess the reviews I read for a variety of hotels on tripadvisor where indeed true - just be prepared for it no matter where you go in Vietnam.

The Pride of Phu Quoc - Sao Beach

Sao Beach – the islands top rated beach known for its white sand and beautiful blue water that you can walk out into for a mile.

While it was pretty there were so many boats that crowd the beach during the day disturbing the view & pumping oil into the water.  And it's a little dirty a the majority of the beach is covered with places to eat.

We did enjoy our afternoon there especially after our long motorbike journey.  It felt so refreshing to strip down and jump in the water.  There were a few things that gave us pause:

1. Creepy guy pretending to take pictures of the scenery when really he was taking pictures of us. I think that qualifies as creepy.

2. A chubby little girl thought it would be funny to pick up one of the puppies and throw it into the water.  If she hadn’t been so far way I would have picked her up and dunked her in the water. Poor little pup.

3.  Random old man clearly pulling down his swim trunks to do what we can only speculate, #2.  We quickly swam far far away and not long after we got out of the water.

Other than that, it was great!  If you go just be careful to check the water, it tends to be the favorite of jellyfish during a certain times of year.

Two little beach bums at Sao Beach

Phu Quoc Island Adventures

Opt for renting a motorbike over the local tours and hit up the places of interest on your own.  While only about half the island is accessible via road and only a quarter of that is paved it’s an excellent way to explore your surroundings BUT be up for an adventure and expect a bit of a sore toosh when you return.

We made our way down the unpaved red road (dirt road that just happens to be red), getting what I like to call a Vietnamese massage as we bopped up and down over the bumps.  We finally made it to the Pearl Factory – NGOC HIEN – (the 3^rd one down the road).  It really wasn’t anything interesting. More of a jewelry store that I think is a bit overpriced.  Personally, I think you could bypass it all together unless you have a pearl fetish.

After the pearl farm we headed off in search of Coconut Prison (otherwhise known as Nha Lao Cay Dua) . Our journey took us a bit longer than anticipated as the one map that is available only highlights the main roads.  The map also has another downfall when you’re lost; it’s only written in English so asking locals for directions requires that you are willing to embark in a game of charades to understand each other.  I became aware of just how silly we looked when the navy guard started to crack up as he watched us and humble Vietnamese soul try to understand each other.

The prison is something that I think you should visit if you can.  It is a bit graphic so be prepared.  It reminds us that torture on either side, no matter who it is and who the others are, should not be permitted or tolerated by human kind.

Beach Bumming and Spa Treatments:

We spent the first few days just bumming around on the beach and relaxing by the pool – typical beach bums. And course we indulged in multiple spa treatments.  All of which were same same except for the facial.  For the facial it was back to basic and ALL NATURAL.  The process included yogurt, honey, and some sort of oatmeal like rice mixture.  I might just have to adopt the process and have my own spa at my apartment.

Yummy for your Tummy in Phu Quoc

Red River Restaurant.  Excellent Vietnamese.  We ordered seafood spring rolls that were truly unique as the crust was more of spun dough instead of the more familiar deep fried dough.  BBQ fish filets. Crispy Chicken. Seafood rice! Yummy.  A bonus is that the staff were super friendly a little puppy name Jerry greets you when you walk in. So adorable.  This place also offers scooter rentals at a much cheaper rate than many of the hotels.

Mondo. An excellent break from Vietnamese food.  This joint is run by a Swedish couple who have really put effort into ensuring that guest get great food in an excellent atmosphere. It’s a tapas place with a great wine selection.  My husband who isn’t the biggest tapas fan walked away saying it might have changed his mind – he loved the food.  An added bonus, they serve breakfast all day long.

The Night Market.  Almost every evening Phu Quoc hosts a night market that is composed of about 60% restaurants and 40% small little shops.  You can find just about any seafood you want at these stalls.  What caught my eyes is that you are able to just walk by and pick out which fish, sea urchin or crab you want.  They will serve it up fresh with a side of corn.

Phu Quoc Island

We arrived in Phu Quoc not knowing what to expect.  This island which lies off the Vietnamese and Cambodian coasts is said to rival the beaches in Thailand (or so the Vietnamese claim).

For the moment the island hasn’t been taken over by hundreds of the massive hotel chains leaving you with plenty of locally owned options to stay at (although this is quickly changing as many development projects are underway).

The people are friendly (minus the guy who took 500,000 dong instead of 50,000 dong and never came back to tell us – sucks. But I believe karma will bite him in the butt). The seafood is wonderful. And the island offers a simple laid back atmosphere for you to get lost in.

While you can choose to stay at some of the higher end places (starting at $125 per night on up during low season) it isn’t a must.  There are plenty of 3 star accommodations that provide you with clean rooms, excursions, and best of all - a spa!

Eating for a good cause - a meal you will remember!

Huong Lai is not to miss. While food is amazing, the restaurant and its purpose provide so much more.  I cannot tell you how many times throughout our journey I have been so inspired and impressed by people doing wonderful things grown out of simple ideas.  This establishment has found the perfect blend between great food and a social cause.  All staff are former street children or orphans.  This restaurant teaches them English, teaches them skills that they can take with them in the future which equals opportunity and renewed sense of purpose in an place that they may otherwise not have any options.

In their own words: Huong Lai’s philosophy is simple: Offer delicious Vietnamese cuisine without pretense of the high price by friendly and caring staff formerly disadvantaged youth. Just pure and simple.

Go in and eat.  They have a variety of pre set menu’s to choose from that include 4 dishes between for two people at no more than $20 bucks a person (for the fancier menu). We opted for the Seafood Menu that included:  Prawns in coconut juice with salt/pepper/lime dipping mixture, seafood spring rolls, eggplant with onions, seafood rice, and the best homemade ice cream I have had in a while.  For us this was one of the best places we ate at in Ho Chi Minh City.

An added bonus: if you like any of the utensils - plates, chopsticks, silverware, you name it they will sell it to you.  All proceeds go back into the restuarant to helps continue the program. 

A day on the Mekong

The Mekong Delta is one of the things I fantasized about visiting before arriving in Vietnam.  The beauty I saw in pictures was something that captured my spirit.  While I initially had wanted to do a 3 day journey with home stay, I was unable to do it in order to fit in more time for another part of our trip.  I still recommend it if you can fit it in.

TRAVEl TIP: While it is possible to do the Mekong on your own (assuming you have time and an adventurous spirit), most people, locals included, recommend heading to the Mekong on a tour – private or group.   The reason behind this is that if you show up to the boat without a pre arranged price you could end up paying a pretty penny and you may miss actually visiting the some of the islands.

On our trip we visited four islands where we indulged in homemade coconut candy and honey tea.  Both were excellent.  

I also took the opportunity to try Durian fruit for the first time. My impression: it stinks like hell and I am not sure it tastes much better, however a local will tell you stinks like hell and tastes like heaven.

My trip highlight: While larger boats shuttle you between islands you eventually arrive to the small canals where only row boats will fit.  Once you step foot onto the row boat your spirit gets lost in the beautiful scenery.  Lush vegetations surrounds you, water coconuts (a dark spiky looking fruit) are everywhere.

Reality and hints: this is also one of the poorest areas in Vietnam.  A rower will begin their day at 8 am waiting for tourist to arrive (if they arrive at all) which could only equate to a few rides (and sometimes none) at 15000 dong which is about $0.75 cents (USD).  

TRAVEL TIP: BE SURE TO TIP! Buying the local products make for great gifts and by purchasing you will also support the local community.