More tips for the socially conscious consumer: Cambodia

Beyond. Making money & changing lives!

This place offers tourism that benefits the community.  If you’re going to take a tour, which you probably will, why not opt to use them and make a little difference while you do.  Beyond employs locals & anywhere from 5% to 25% of their profits (depending on the tour) goes back into the community.

The same owner of Beyond owns a high end hotel Sojourn built in the village of Tac.  He uses the location to lure customers who want to feel like they are in the “real Cambodia” but there is a catch.  Almost all of the hotel activities are focused on the surrounding village.  Visitors can take a village walk, teach English at a school for a few hours, help in the rice fields, or pitch in building a water filter.

Their nonprofit arm is called HUSK! They provide trash bins for the village and pay for trash pickup for the community.

Our village walk with Beyond.

This was one of the highlights of our trip.  We got to see firsthand just how powerful a network of nonprofits working together can be.  In Tac, a small village there were a number of things happening:

Water filters. These filters are just $45 a piece but they are providing the community with safe drinking water. This means healthier kids that are able to attend school.

Compost Toilets.  Cleaner and safer for the community, ADDED bonus fertilizer to help the crops grow.

Stonger housing.  Each year during the rainy season it floods and many of the houses that have been built cannot sustain the damage caused by the water. New houses are being built for the poorest families that include a tin roof, cemented wooden pillars to hold up the house on stilts, and windows for circulation.

HUSK waste barrels. These barrels get the trash of the street. Cleaner streets, less rat, less disease = a more productive society.

The entire community receives education on how to use each of these. Our guide was a local from the community and told us how impressed he has been with the change.  He painted the picture of what the village used to look like and I can only imagine what is must have been like.

Little by little things are changing.

Getting to know Cambodia

Our journey into Cambodia began with a six hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Phen.  As a person who suffers from motion sickness I was dreading this trip (especially after my 20 plus times of being sick on a bus ride through southern Peru).  However, the trip was pleasant and I managed not to

puke (Yes, I win!).

In Phnom Phen we opted to stay a little off the beaten path so we chose stay in a hotel a little further into the city, about 5 min walk from the main drag on the river.  I am glad we did because it allowed us to see more of Phnom Phen.

Our observations:

There is a big and obvious gap between the wealthy and the poor in this city. This city is flooded with high end luxury SUV’s driven by the local elite and abundant amount of expiates in the town.

Big expatriate community.  There is a mix of people working for a variety of NGO’s and UN programs along with foreign businessmen and women.

TRAVEL TIP:

SEX TOURISM is no stranger to this town! SOUTHEAST ASIA HAS SOME OF THE HIGHEST FIGURES WHEN IT COMES TO SEX TOURISM. MANY OF THESE GIRLS ARE BETWEEN THE AGES OF 12-17.

WITHIN ITS WALLS SOME OF THE BIGGEST OFFENDERS OF THE SEX TRADE LIE. BE SMART. BE OBERSERVANT. IF YOU SEE SOMETHING SAY SOMETHING.

CHILD SAFE is a NGO working to help curb the abundance of sex tourism in Phnom Phen. YOUR JOB: notify them or any establishment that has the Chile Safe logo.  (A good indicator is if you see a bar full of young girls just sitting around and older men by themselves sitting or getting dropped off, going in, and heading upstairs)

Phu Quoc Island Adventures

Opt for renting a motorbike over the local tours and hit up the places of interest on your own.  While only about half the island is accessible via road and only a quarter of that is paved it’s an excellent way to explore your surroundings BUT be up for an adventure and expect a bit of a sore toosh when you return.

We made our way down the unpaved red road (dirt road that just happens to be red), getting what I like to call a Vietnamese massage as we bopped up and down over the bumps.  We finally made it to the Pearl Factory – NGOC HIEN – (the 3^rd one down the road).  It really wasn’t anything interesting. More of a jewelry store that I think is a bit overpriced.  Personally, I think you could bypass it all together unless you have a pearl fetish.

After the pearl farm we headed off in search of Coconut Prison (otherwhise known as Nha Lao Cay Dua) . Our journey took us a bit longer than anticipated as the one map that is available only highlights the main roads.  The map also has another downfall when you’re lost; it’s only written in English so asking locals for directions requires that you are willing to embark in a game of charades to understand each other.  I became aware of just how silly we looked when the navy guard started to crack up as he watched us and humble Vietnamese soul try to understand each other.

The prison is something that I think you should visit if you can.  It is a bit graphic so be prepared.  It reminds us that torture on either side, no matter who it is and who the others are, should not be permitted or tolerated by human kind.

Beach Bumming and Spa Treatments:

We spent the first few days just bumming around on the beach and relaxing by the pool – typical beach bums. And course we indulged in multiple spa treatments.  All of which were same same except for the facial.  For the facial it was back to basic and ALL NATURAL.  The process included yogurt, honey, and some sort of oatmeal like rice mixture.  I might just have to adopt the process and have my own spa at my apartment.

Yummy for your Tummy in Phu Quoc

Red River Restaurant.  Excellent Vietnamese.  We ordered seafood spring rolls that were truly unique as the crust was more of spun dough instead of the more familiar deep fried dough.  BBQ fish filets. Crispy Chicken. Seafood rice! Yummy.  A bonus is that the staff were super friendly a little puppy name Jerry greets you when you walk in. So adorable.  This place also offers scooter rentals at a much cheaper rate than many of the hotels.

Mondo. An excellent break from Vietnamese food.  This joint is run by a Swedish couple who have really put effort into ensuring that guest get great food in an excellent atmosphere. It’s a tapas place with a great wine selection.  My husband who isn’t the biggest tapas fan walked away saying it might have changed his mind – he loved the food.  An added bonus, they serve breakfast all day long.

The Night Market.  Almost every evening Phu Quoc hosts a night market that is composed of about 60% restaurants and 40% small little shops.  You can find just about any seafood you want at these stalls.  What caught my eyes is that you are able to just walk by and pick out which fish, sea urchin or crab you want.  They will serve it up fresh with a side of corn.

Eating for a good cause - a meal you will remember!

Huong Lai is not to miss. While food is amazing, the restaurant and its purpose provide so much more.  I cannot tell you how many times throughout our journey I have been so inspired and impressed by people doing wonderful things grown out of simple ideas.  This establishment has found the perfect blend between great food and a social cause.  All staff are former street children or orphans.  This restaurant teaches them English, teaches them skills that they can take with them in the future which equals opportunity and renewed sense of purpose in an place that they may otherwise not have any options.

In their own words: Huong Lai’s philosophy is simple: Offer delicious Vietnamese cuisine without pretense of the high price by friendly and caring staff formerly disadvantaged youth. Just pure and simple.

Go in and eat.  They have a variety of pre set menu’s to choose from that include 4 dishes between for two people at no more than $20 bucks a person (for the fancier menu). We opted for the Seafood Menu that included:  Prawns in coconut juice with salt/pepper/lime dipping mixture, seafood spring rolls, eggplant with onions, seafood rice, and the best homemade ice cream I have had in a while.  For us this was one of the best places we ate at in Ho Chi Minh City.

An added bonus: if you like any of the utensils - plates, chopsticks, silverware, you name it they will sell it to you.  All proceeds go back into the restuarant to helps continue the program. 

A day on the Mekong

The Mekong Delta is one of the things I fantasized about visiting before arriving in Vietnam.  The beauty I saw in pictures was something that captured my spirit.  While I initially had wanted to do a 3 day journey with home stay, I was unable to do it in order to fit in more time for another part of our trip.  I still recommend it if you can fit it in.

TRAVEl TIP: While it is possible to do the Mekong on your own (assuming you have time and an adventurous spirit), most people, locals included, recommend heading to the Mekong on a tour – private or group.   The reason behind this is that if you show up to the boat without a pre arranged price you could end up paying a pretty penny and you may miss actually visiting the some of the islands.

On our trip we visited four islands where we indulged in homemade coconut candy and honey tea.  Both were excellent.  

I also took the opportunity to try Durian fruit for the first time. My impression: it stinks like hell and I am not sure it tastes much better, however a local will tell you stinks like hell and tastes like heaven.

My trip highlight: While larger boats shuttle you between islands you eventually arrive to the small canals where only row boats will fit.  Once you step foot onto the row boat your spirit gets lost in the beautiful scenery.  Lush vegetations surrounds you, water coconuts (a dark spiky looking fruit) are everywhere.

Reality and hints: this is also one of the poorest areas in Vietnam.  A rower will begin their day at 8 am waiting for tourist to arrive (if they arrive at all) which could only equate to a few rides (and sometimes none) at 15000 dong which is about $0.75 cents (USD).  

TRAVEL TIP: BE SURE TO TIP! Buying the local products make for great gifts and by purchasing you will also support the local community.

A little glimpse into a Dune Bashing expierence

Paris Fabulous Finds: Going Out!

Going out.  

While most of our time was spent at café’s and wine bars, which I encourage anyone to do as much as possible.  We hit up a few funky spots that you may want to check out as well.

Favela Chic - this Brazilian bar/restaurant kicks into high gear around 11 pm or so.  It is a perfect place to let loose and get your booty shaking.  Playing samba, salsa, and more it is impossible not to shake your booty just a little bit.

La Pachange or Le Balajo for some excellent salsa dancing.  Just watch out, the Parisians LOVE, I mean LOVE to spin.  The only problem is they aren’t very controlled when they are doing it so be prepared to catch an elbow or two in your face while on the dance floor.  I think my little toes got smashed as well.

L’IVRESS MY PICK!  This little wine bar was just up the street from us in 2^nd arrondismant.  Throughout our six weeks in Paris this became one of our favorite spots.  The wine choices are awesome and if you don’t know what you want the staff will be sure to help you out.  If you don’t have time to sit and enjoy the wine, no worries, they sell bottles plus some awesome food products.  Don’t miss out on this fabulous find.

Le Pin Up.  This place specializes in champagne cocktails – a Parisian fav (something that I still find questionable – mixing champagne and hard liquor).  The crowd can be a bit snooty it is worth a visit.  If you come after 11 pm the downstairs den opens up for dancing.  Just make sure you love house music.

l’Experimental Cocktail Club.  We went here for cocktails late one evening before dinner.

Observation: this place might be trying a little too hard and the crowd can be a bit pretentious on the weekend (or maybe I am a jaded New Yorker who is tired with this concept). Nonetheless, the bartenders, or excuse me the mixologists are mixing up some excellent concoctions, just be prepared to pay a little more than some other bars. 

TRAVEL TIP:  Go during the week.  During the weekend they have a goon standing at the front door to select who can come in.  It’s yet another stretch to try to make this place seem hipper than it is.

Queen or Cab whether clubbing or people watching is your thing; these two places will not disappoint you...  Queen is an interesting place full of expiates and locals.  Check the night you want to go as different nights have different themes from drag queen, gay night, to star spotting and more.  Cab is full on club and can get pumping on Sunday evenings.

Comedy – Check out How to Become Parisian in One Hour.  It is one Parisians guy perspective on how Parisians live.  He offers tips and advice to foreigners on how they too can become Parisian.  It’s about an hour long.  (If you plan to go just make sure to check that the show isn’t on tour).

Paris Fabulous Finds: City Views

For Fabulous city views of Paris (beyond the Eiffel Tower and Sacre Cœur)

Galerie Lafayette.  There is certainly more to be seen than all the fancy clothes at this shopping center.  Head up to the very top to catch beautiful views of the city.  Oh, and remember to pick up a bag of macaroons on the 4^th floor to accompany you while you enjoy the view.

Centre Pompidou– Not only does this modern art museum provide you with a perfect way to pass the afternoon as you take in some fabulous art but you can head up to the top to enjoy a glass of wine with the added bonus of a stunning view of the Parisian skyline.  (Or plan ahead to have lunch at their yummy restaurant)

Paris Fabulous Finds: Seaching for the Perfect Macaroon

The perfect macaroon. 

Being a sweet eater and supposedly in the land of pastries it only seemed fitting that I should embark on a conquest to find the perfect macaroon. After trying over 20 bakeries my three suggestions to you are:

-  La Duree - everyone flocks here and with good reason.  Their macaroons are fab.  But they aren’t the only game in town so don’t be fooled. My pick: their salted caramel is unbeatable.

- Eric Kayser –Initially this place became famous for their baguettes so if you go I encourage you to pick one up. My pick: their pistachio can’t be beat. 

TRAVEL TIP: ask for the baguette traditional (if you just say baguette you will get standard).  They also make one of the most scrumptious chocolate chip cookies I have ever had.

-  Carette Macaroons – located in the ritzy Place de Vosges these macaroons rival La Duree without a doubt. My pick: Blackcurrant and Violet.

TRAVEL TIP: FOR NON TRADITIONAL FLAVORS head to Gallarie Lafayette on the 4^th floor. There is a small macaroon stand that selling unique creations such as: white chocolate and truffle, chocolate froi gras, and rum liquor lemon. 

Making Memories in Paris

On to yet another wine adventure in another wonderful city - Paris for 6 whole weeks!  While it was not my intention to spend this long in one city it was an opportunity for us enjoy the company of friends and meet my new family. An added bonus was that my new hubby’s hospital exchange gave him a firsthand look at Paris health system (plus a special visit with the U.S ambassador in Paris) and me an opportunity to understand more about the city that he loves so much. 

If I were to make note of every little thing we did in Paris for six weeks this blog post would never end. Instead I thought it would be good to take a different approach to highlight our experiences as well as include some fabulous finds in Paris.   

Our highlights:

-          Exploring Rue Montorgueil – restaurants, cafes, cheese shops, markets and more!

-          Getting lost in Châtelet-Les Halles

-          Weekend trips to Champagne, Lille, Berlin, and Versailles

-          For me laughing at myself repeatedly as I attempted to speak French while taking lessons at Lutece Langue

-          Enjoying home-cooked meals with my new family and friends

-          Traveling to Bourg La Reine (a banlieue’s of Paris) to and being treated to a delicious French meal with my dear friend from Lille and her family.  Something to remember.

-          Mastering the art of cooking on a hot plate.  We successfully made mussels, ceviche, and spaghetti carbanara, and I even managed to wip up some killer beef carpaccio salads.

-          Sitting at cafes for hours drinking wine with some very special friends and lovely family members.

-          Getting the chance to see Maceo Parker perform live in Lille, a big thank you to my otra hermana and her lovely novio for this wedding gift.

-          Coming to the conclusion (self drawn conclusion of course) that over half of Paris doesn’t work or rather they refuse to work any more than 40 hours (which apparently after many conversation they already think is too much) because they are always in the café’s

-          Our little jail cell studio apartment – a fire hazard for sure! But apparently they have lax standards in Paris as metal bars on our 1 window apt surely would prevent any type of escape.  While discussing with a local Parisian we were told “not to worry, Paris doesn’t have fires”.  (right)

-    A PARIS PACKAGE SURPRISE – Climbing the stairs to our flat late at night having to step over one tenant who must have been sneaking phone calls.  He was a bit “overexposed” on a few occasion as his “you know what” seemed to be hanging out of his pajama pants that were a bit too big

-   Picnics, wine, and lovely conversations while enjoying the evenings along canal St. Martin (as MUST DO for anyone going to Paris when it is warm. Buy some wine; grab some cheese, bread, olives and more.  It is one of the best experiences you can have)

-   Hunting for the perfect macaroon (sampling what more than 20 stores have to offer)

-   Dancing on the tables @ Favala Chic

-   Getting lost in the Paris’s network of alleyways for hours on end (if you see an opening on a street just go down it. It leads to so many beautiful parts of the city)

-   Walking, walking, and walking (I always believe this is the best way to see any city, assuming it is safe to walk of course)

Paris Trip Planning: Here are a few suggestion on where to stay.

There are a billion and one places to stay in Paris and they aren’t cheap (especially for Americans when the dollar is weak.  One of my most painful memories while staying there).

TRAVEL TIP:  If you’re going to be there for over two weeks I would look into subletting an apt.  You can check our VRBO, Air B’n’B, or other sites like Paris Stay.  The difference in price may just be worth it and you will get to live like a Parisian – how romantic (J).

Areas you may want to check out:

Opera

Montorgueil

Le Marias

Bastille

Other areas: 15^th and 19^th arrondissement nice as well just a little further out

Mendoza - Every Wino's Dream Come True

Mendoza could quite possibly been any wino’s dream, including mine!  Many people I had spoken with had said it reminded them of Napa Valley in the 70’s but since I wasn’t born then I cannot compare it, but I can tell you that it is not to miss.

I remember the first time I tried Malbec, curiosity got the best of me, I wanted to know more about how this lovely tasting concoction was made.  Some years following, I went on my first trip Argentina, I fell in love the country but I wasn’t able to visit Mendoza. So I vowed I would not miss it on my next adventure.

Mendoza is beautiful and it was a nice break from Buenos Aires.  The town itself is super cute, lined with cafes serving great food.  The city is surrounded by mountains and the terrain is dry and dusty.  The people are laid back, reminding me a bit of some of the mountains in Colorado. My preferred breakfast was a café latte with a medialuna (pastry like thing brushed in sugar). 

We happend to arrive just before the Miss Mendoza pageant was beginning.  In front of the venue for the entire week you can find cut outs of the beauty queens for all the public to see. 

TRAVEL TIP:  You can either opt to take a bus or fly.  I opted for flying in an effort to avoid suffering from motion sickness.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Visit los muertos in Buenos Aires

Get lost amongst los muertos.

Cementerio de la Recoleta. NOT TO MISS. This is one of the must see places on my not to miss list in Buenos Aires - Cementerio de la Recoleta. While you may have visted cemeteries before in Europe or other locations around the world there is something truly unique about this place. It literally is built like a little city. I know it may sound strange but I personally found this place to be oddly romantic. It is beautiful.

If your in search of Evita this is where you will find her buried.  A note: there was much controversy about her being burried within the walls of this resting place. This cemetery was and still is reserved for the elite of Buenos Aires.

You not only had/have to have money to be burried here but you also had/have to come from the right pedigree. A walk around will reveal to you some tombs that are on sale. While it might seem that these would be easy to buy, a "lot" here is said to be one of the most expensive pieces of property in B.A.

Another cemetery worth visiting: Cementerio de la Chacarita. Here you will find the tomb of the man who is said to be responsible for making tango famous, a man of the people, Carlos Gardel. A cigarette burns in his hand around the clock.

TRAVEL TIP: if your there in June you may be able to catch thousands of people still making a trip to pay homage to Gardel on the anniversary of his death. It will be packed with tango artist & dancers. If you don't know his music check it out. You will see why his legacy continues.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Tango in Buenos Aires

Tango. Tango. Tango.

While it might be exploited to some people there are AMAZING tango spots in B.A. I suggest heading to La Viruta for a milonga or check out some additional hot spots at Buenos Aires Milongas. And while getting out there and dancing may seem intimidating, get more comfortable by taking a few tango lessons.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: GOAL Buenos Aires

G_O_A_L!

Don’t miss a chance to attend a local futbol match. There are two that I would recommend La Boca and River Plate. If you head to La Boca you can sign up with various tour companies such as BYTArgentina, that will escort you in and out of the stadium. For the brave hearted, if you go solo, please be aware of your surroundings. If something happens, I told you so. (Trust me – they know you’re not from there).

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Gourmet in Buenos Aires

Mott Cocina De MercadoMott Cocina De Mercado

For the foodies out there this is not to miss! The gourmet food culture is in check in B.A. There are some excellent places not to miss and this is one of them. Straight from the farm to your place (sound familiar to you NYC peeps?). I ordered the pumpkin salad and a glass of Torrontes. I am still craving it!

Fabulous finds & Hidden Hints: Beef it is whats for dinner in Buenos Aires

Coma! Coma! Coma Argentinean beef!

OK, this isn’t a hidden fact but I have a few suggestions in terms of where to eat it. (Sorry vegetarians, I think this is a horrible thing to miss in the city but the sides are tasty if eating the meat is against your rules).

I would head to La Cabrera for dinner. You will be treated to a traditional and truly amazing taste of Argentinean beef. BONUS: this place has it figured out. They serve you unlitmed FREE wine while you wait!

You cannot beat the price and the quality. (People from NYC – you won’t sacrifice quality even though the price is awesome – trust me!) . Each plate comes with amazing sides – sauteed onions, creamed spinach (like your grandma used to make), applesauce, potatoes, and more. I ordered the lomo – and as a girl who grew up in the Midwest I can rank this in the top two best steaks I have ever had.

For a lighter and cheaper fare I would suggest walking about the area where you are staying. When you see a parilla that is packed with locals enter – you cannot go wrong! Order. Eat and Enjoy!

AND don’t forget the wine!  While you may be familiar with Malbec, I encourage you to explore beyond this traditional Argentinean wine. Ask your waiter for a suggestion. A few suggestions from yours truly: 2009 Bianchi Elsa Torrontes or try a Malbec from the best years: 1999 or 2006.

Fabulous finds & Hidden Hints: Get familiar with Buenos Aires

 Walk. Camino. Camino.

As much as possible. See the city and go beyond the walk that the guide book suggests. If you speak Spanish you may be compelled to ask a local for their top three in B.A. My suggestion (if you have the time and the energy): Start: - Grab breakfast in Palermo: Viejo or Soho is packed with places. - Continue on to the city center (if you are lucky you may be able to catch Las Madres de Plaza Mayo on Thursday marching in memory of los desapericidos. - From there head over to San Telmo for lunch or drink. Grab a spot in the main plaza to enjoy a street tango show or head up to a place that has a balcony on the second floor for excellent people watching. - Continue from there to Puerto Madero.

Walk along the canal and discover the contrast of the city – old and new. If you’re feeling tired stop in at one of the many cafes along the way. - Finish at the city center and catch the train to where you’re staying. **this suggestion in intended to give you a sampling of what the city has to offer. Once you get a sense of each area be sure to go back to the places that really captured your spirit. I promise you won’t be let down!