Mendoza. Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Other tours

A Day in the Mountains:  While there are a million and one things you can do in the mountains we chose to take a ride to check out Christ the Redeemer that sits between the border of Argentina & Chile.  Our journey there was long but our guides had a bit of a sense of humor.  The road up the mountain is a shotty looking and only provides just enough room for two cars.  At one point we decided to play a cruel joke on the car behind us and placed stones across the road so they would be blocked temporarily.  

We finally reached Christ the Redeemer at the tippy top of the mountain.  The view was breathtaking but it was COLD! I would recommend it.  After visiting the El Cristo we made our way to Incan ruins not far outside of Mendoza.  If you haven't had the chance to see any Incan ruins before this is pretty cool.  If you have seen Machu Pichu then perhaps this will be less impressive.

If your there for a few more days you can also check out the natural springs not far outside of the city.

Mendoza Fabulous Finds & Helpful Hints: Wine Tours

Wine Tour:  This is a must BUT I caution you about booking too many.  We had planned to do two days of wine touring and changed it to one for good reason (see post about mountain tour).  My favorite of the wineries visited was Bodega Lopez.  While it is one of the more massive wineries they tours are thorough.  They do an excellent job of teahing you both the science and the process of wine.  In addition to an excellent tour, lunch at this winery was exceptional. 

We also visited an organic winery and an olive oil plant. If you have to cut something out, I would suggest the olive oil plant.

Mendoza Fabulous Finds & Helpful Hints: Private Tasting

Huentala Hotel Boutique hotel. I would highly recommend this to anyone planning a visit to Mendoza. It was right in the heart of town. 

Private Wine Tasting.  Whether you stay at Huentala or not don’t miss the opportunity to for a private wine tasting for about $30 a person. Initially, we signed up thinking that we would be with a group for about 1 hour – what we got was so much more.  The hotel opens its underground bar only for wine tastings and private events, so when we arrived we found that only the two of us plus the sommelier was present.  For four hours we sipped on wine, ate cheese and chatted about wine, politics and more. 

If you’re interested in Malbec and want a good quality bottle look for wines from the region in the 1999 and 2005. 

Mendoza - Every Wino's Dream Come True

Mendoza could quite possibly been any wino’s dream, including mine!  Many people I had spoken with had said it reminded them of Napa Valley in the 70’s but since I wasn’t born then I cannot compare it, but I can tell you that it is not to miss.

I remember the first time I tried Malbec, curiosity got the best of me, I wanted to know more about how this lovely tasting concoction was made.  Some years following, I went on my first trip Argentina, I fell in love the country but I wasn’t able to visit Mendoza. So I vowed I would not miss it on my next adventure.

Mendoza is beautiful and it was a nice break from Buenos Aires.  The town itself is super cute, lined with cafes serving great food.  The city is surrounded by mountains and the terrain is dry and dusty.  The people are laid back, reminding me a bit of some of the mountains in Colorado. My preferred breakfast was a café latte with a medialuna (pastry like thing brushed in sugar). 

We happend to arrive just before the Miss Mendoza pageant was beginning.  In front of the venue for the entire week you can find cut outs of the beauty queens for all the public to see. 

TRAVEL TIP:  You can either opt to take a bus or fly.  I opted for flying in an effort to avoid suffering from motion sickness.

Colonia, Uruguay

A trip to Colonia from Buenos Aires can be done in 1 day and it offers a nice change from the hustle and bustle of the big city.  Just catch the express ferry at the Batobus harbor and you will be there in 1 hour.

The village is a total contrast to Buenos Aires.  It is the oldest town in Uruguay.  It is a tiny colonial village that still maintains some of architecture from both its Spanish and Portuguese influence.  One section of the town has been preserved the old city where you explore just how different the construction were – from the way the cobblestones where arranged to the structure of the doorways. 

A few other things:

-   All about town there are a number of old cars that seem to just be sitting there.  Some have been converted to restaurant seats while others seem to be full on flower pots

-   The town is still working on developing its tourist offerings so have a little bit of patience. 

-   While there is talk about the beaches in Colonia, if you’re used to blue waters you may think twice about jumping into the light brown sea.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Visit los muertos in Buenos Aires

Get lost amongst los muertos.

Cementerio de la Recoleta. NOT TO MISS. This is one of the must see places on my not to miss list in Buenos Aires - Cementerio de la Recoleta. While you may have visted cemeteries before in Europe or other locations around the world there is something truly unique about this place. It literally is built like a little city. I know it may sound strange but I personally found this place to be oddly romantic. It is beautiful.

If your in search of Evita this is where you will find her buried.  A note: there was much controversy about her being burried within the walls of this resting place. This cemetery was and still is reserved for the elite of Buenos Aires.

You not only had/have to have money to be burried here but you also had/have to come from the right pedigree. A walk around will reveal to you some tombs that are on sale. While it might seem that these would be easy to buy, a "lot" here is said to be one of the most expensive pieces of property in B.A.

Another cemetery worth visiting: Cementerio de la Chacarita. Here you will find the tomb of the man who is said to be responsible for making tango famous, a man of the people, Carlos Gardel. A cigarette burns in his hand around the clock.

TRAVEL TIP: if your there in June you may be able to catch thousands of people still making a trip to pay homage to Gardel on the anniversary of his death. It will be packed with tango artist & dancers. If you don't know his music check it out. You will see why his legacy continues.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Speak spanish with the locals - Buenos Aires

Practice. Practice. Practica.

If you don’t know anything or want a refresher and you have the time take Spanish classes. You will meet other people traveling and will begin to communicate with peeps. I recommend ECELA.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Tango in Buenos Aires

Tango. Tango. Tango.

While it might be exploited to some people there are AMAZING tango spots in B.A. I suggest heading to La Viruta for a milonga or check out some additional hot spots at Buenos Aires Milongas. And while getting out there and dancing may seem intimidating, get more comfortable by taking a few tango lessons.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Horse culture in Buenos Aires

Horses, horses, and more horses.

Argentina is so rich in horse culture that one would be a fool to miss witnessing just how wrapped up people can get. While it is may be true that the horse culture has transformed from a sport of the people to a sport of the elite it doesn’t mean that the fire is gone. If you’re not there during Polo season and cannot get access to a match you have two options:

1. Check out polo for a day at Polo Day
2. Hipodromo San Isidro To check out an incredible horse race. Foreigners don’t forget your passport if you want to make a bet…and be able to walk away with your winnings.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: More food in Buenos Aires

5. Spoil yourself!

Head to Casa Cruz for an incredible culinary journey.

If you’re in search of a similar experience for a second time around don’t forget to check out Astrid & Gaston B.A. (initially it was opened in Lima (if your there GO!). A Peruvian French trained chef….need I say more!

A few other suggestions:

Paru. This establishment is a mix of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. It's and interesting mix. The dishes are good with a few falling short in terms of taste. But the ones that are head one are excellent like the Sushi ceviche.



Fervor - Brasas de Campo y Mar. Another great find in Recoleta. This will get you out of the ever trendy Palermo and into Recoleta. This cuisine will not let you down. While there menu is full of excellent food opt for any seafood dish - it is what they are famous for. If your going in the evening I suggest you make a reservation.

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: GOAL Buenos Aires

G_O_A_L!

Don’t miss a chance to attend a local futbol match. There are two that I would recommend La Boca and River Plate. If you head to La Boca you can sign up with various tour companies such as BYTArgentina, that will escort you in and out of the stadium. For the brave hearted, if you go solo, please be aware of your surroundings. If something happens, I told you so. (Trust me – they know you’re not from there).

Fabulous Finds & Hidden Hints: Gourmet in Buenos Aires

Mott Cocina De MercadoMott Cocina De Mercado

For the foodies out there this is not to miss! The gourmet food culture is in check in B.A. There are some excellent places not to miss and this is one of them. Straight from the farm to your place (sound familiar to you NYC peeps?). I ordered the pumpkin salad and a glass of Torrontes. I am still craving it!

Fabulous finds & Hidden Hints: Beef it is whats for dinner in Buenos Aires

Coma! Coma! Coma Argentinean beef!

OK, this isn’t a hidden fact but I have a few suggestions in terms of where to eat it. (Sorry vegetarians, I think this is a horrible thing to miss in the city but the sides are tasty if eating the meat is against your rules).

I would head to La Cabrera for dinner. You will be treated to a traditional and truly amazing taste of Argentinean beef. BONUS: this place has it figured out. They serve you unlitmed FREE wine while you wait!

You cannot beat the price and the quality. (People from NYC – you won’t sacrifice quality even though the price is awesome – trust me!) . Each plate comes with amazing sides – sauteed onions, creamed spinach (like your grandma used to make), applesauce, potatoes, and more. I ordered the lomo – and as a girl who grew up in the Midwest I can rank this in the top two best steaks I have ever had.

For a lighter and cheaper fare I would suggest walking about the area where you are staying. When you see a parilla that is packed with locals enter – you cannot go wrong! Order. Eat and Enjoy!

AND don’t forget the wine!  While you may be familiar with Malbec, I encourage you to explore beyond this traditional Argentinean wine. Ask your waiter for a suggestion. A few suggestions from yours truly: 2009 Bianchi Elsa Torrontes or try a Malbec from the best years: 1999 or 2006.

Fabulous finds & Hidden Hints: Get familiar with Buenos Aires

 Walk. Camino. Camino.

As much as possible. See the city and go beyond the walk that the guide book suggests. If you speak Spanish you may be compelled to ask a local for their top three in B.A. My suggestion (if you have the time and the energy): Start: - Grab breakfast in Palermo: Viejo or Soho is packed with places. - Continue on to the city center (if you are lucky you may be able to catch Las Madres de Plaza Mayo on Thursday marching in memory of los desapericidos. - From there head over to San Telmo for lunch or drink. Grab a spot in the main plaza to enjoy a street tango show or head up to a place that has a balcony on the second floor for excellent people watching. - Continue from there to Puerto Madero.

Walk along the canal and discover the contrast of the city – old and new. If you’re feeling tired stop in at one of the many cafes along the way. - Finish at the city center and catch the train to where you’re staying. **this suggestion in intended to give you a sampling of what the city has to offer. Once you get a sense of each area be sure to go back to the places that really captured your spirit. I promise you won’t be let down!

Argentina: Buenos Aires. Mendoza, Colonia (Uruguay)

Scratching the Surface:

Perhaps Buenos Aires is like NYC – you either love it or don’t. But if you don’t you at least appreciate it. For me it just clicks. I get lost in the city. I can walk for days and I encourage anyone who visits to do the same – with caution of course! (After all this is a city in constant transition). If you either live in NYC and/or you have had the pleasure of visiting, I challenge you to discover B.A. – it is truly the city that never sleeps. It is constantly full of life – I think being there reminded me of what it feels like to live and it reminded me that in American we really need to campaign for siestas!

If you head to B.A. and plan on dinner make sure your ready to dine at 10 p.m. or later. Be ready to truly enjoy both your meal, your wine, and your company as dinner concludes around 1 or 2 am. Initially, I think the overwhelming reaction would be that this late night crowd is all young kids out partying. Contraire. A walk about any area and stepping foot into any restaurant will correct you. Places are packed with both graybeards and baby strollers and everything in between. Its simple – family and friends enjoying, sharing, and laughing.

A walk about town will reveal just how complex the state of the city and perhaps the country is in. I encourage you to read a little about the history to get a sense of the highs and lows of Argentina, specifically, B.A. . While it is true neighborhoods like Palermo and Recoleta will paint a picture of the good life, the oberservant explorer will discover that perhaps there are pieces of the city that are still caught in time. Playgrounds are run down, city buildings remain unclean, there are bullet holes, fire marks, and paint splatters left over from many revolts and protests. They remind you that this city has yet to choose it destiny – to triumph once again or not? Time will tell. But for a visitor these observations should serve as a reminder to the complex history and incredible might of the people.